Wednesday, January 15, 2025

Maui north side -- the Road to Hana

On our previous visit to Maui (1992) we took the advice to visit the top of Mt Haleakala. That's about 10,000 ft high and, as I recall, a 38 mile drive with some switchbacks. At the top the crater is a barren landscape of volcanic cinders, well above the tree line. 

This time we figured to visit the north side of the island to see the tropical rain forests created by the consistent precipitation as the northeasterly trade winds run up the volcano. Per recommendations at the condo we picked up the Gypsy Traveler app, now known as GuideAlong, for the Road to Hana drive. This route goes clockwise around the northern cost of the island from the airport -- you can go all the way around, just to Hana and return, or just drive a fraction of the route and return. For $15 app you get a GPS-activated audio tour that knows where you are, covers the main sights, suggests customizations and time scheduling. Awesome! And because it's on your phone, and the phone can sync with the car via Bluetooth, it plays over the car's sound system. Perfect.

Because we're on vacation we had a leisurely breakfast from our grocery store run (fruit, yoghurt, granola, coffee). Then hung out on the porch/lanai watching the shore, whales breaching, outrigger canoes cruising by, etc. Next time we come we are definitely booking a morning paddle in the outrigger canoes. 

Our first stop on the Road to Hana was the lovely little town of Paia. We did a little shopping and picked up sandwiches for lunch -- after all, answering "where is my next meal coming from?" is one of the great joys of vacation.

As you drive with Haleakala in the distance it's very clear this is a classic shield volcano. The flat shape looks just like those diagrams in the kids volcano books. So cool!

A few miles farther down the road there's an amazing overlook on a top Maui surfing beach. 15'-20' waves come charging the beach in an endless stream. Dozens of surfers took turns challenging death. I can imagine that if you like surfing this would be a great place to lose a year or two. The scenery and views are not bad for the non-surfing crowd too. 


By now the road is getting twistier and turnier, following the crags of a volcanic coastline with ridges, valleys, lava flows. There is not much of a straight shot in the 17 miles outbound that we covered today. Lots of single lane bridges, narrow roads going around blind corners, uphill/downhill zigzag, etc. Good thing we were not in a hurry as well. 


Next stop was the two waterfalls. About a hundred yards along trail on someone's private farm there's a good sized pool with a cascade of the lava rocks into the pool. As we arrived a family was cliff jumping into the pool. Dad, jump; mom, jump; sister,.......... eventually jump, little brother,... about twenty agonizing minutes of false starts on the cliff before he finally jumped, foot slipping to send him closer to the rocks below. Oooh, was he mad at Mom and Dad for pressuring him into doing it. They will never be able to persuade him against peer pressure from now on -- "Johnny, just because your friends are doing it is not a good reason. If Jeff and Joe jumped off a cliff would you... oh, never mind, just go do whatever they suggest."

On the paths were some cool rainforest flowering trees. 

Swimming & floating in the jungle pool was very nice. Having the picnic lunch to eat while drying if and watching cliff jumpers was fun too.

Farther down the road we stopped at a black sand beach. It's such a convention-defying scene. If course by now time was running short and the typical late-day rainforest precipitation was arriving, so we did not dawdle for long. 

Later we stopped at the Ke'anae peninsula. This flat tongue of lava into the sea was traditionally farmed by Hawaiians for hundreds of years. And there is jagged black lava rock like gnarled fingers sticking out of the waves that crash and Eddy all around. Gorgeous! 


Hawaiian shave ice is a thing! Standard US a bowl about the size of your head, with three flavors. Passionfruit, mango and guava for me. Yum! 




Finally a stop at the Ke'anae arboretum to see all sorts of tropical plants, irrigated terraces of taro plants, golden bamboo and rainbow eucalyptus​. And any number of plants with leaves the size of a window. Just fascinating. 

Eventually all good things must end. And faced with the prospect of driving the road back from Hana in the dark, it was time to head home. We stopped for dinner at the Paia Fish Market in Paia, great fish dinners. 

All in all a fascinating day. It does make me want to learn how to surf. 

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